Hmmm, what can I say? The scenery is spectacular, the trek to the crags fantastic. Unfortunately two out of the three crags we climbed at weren't great. However, the entire adventure getting to the crag makes it worthwhile. 7km bicycle ride, trek through a paddy field, wade across the river, fight through the jungle, walk through a big underground cave, clamber out and wow - there's the crag.
My faith was restored on the last day's climbing when we found Phe Tham. A great crag over looking the village of Vang Vieng. In fact the closest crag to Vang Vieng. Unfortunately there is only 10 routes there and three of them are still projects. I think in a few years this area will be great, all it needs is a bit more traffic and LOTS more routes.
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Phe Tham (ish), Loas (19-12-2006)
Pit Viper (5a, onsight)
King Cobra (6a+, onsight)
No Name (6a, onsight)
No Name (6a+, onsight)
Pe My (6b+, onsight - although, I probably did it at 6b, the first bolt was about 5 or 6m up and a dodgy sling at that - so I traversed into it from a different route - great route though)
King Cobra (6a+, onsight)
No Name (6a, onsight)
No Name (6a+, onsight)
Pe My (6b+, onsight - although, I probably did it at 6b, the first bolt was about 5 or 6m up and a dodgy sling at that - so I traversed into it from a different route - great route though)
Tham Nam Thaem, Loas (18-12-2006)
Sabaydee (6a, onsight)
Remember Me (6a, onsight)
Beer Loa (5, onsight)
Yuck Yuck Yuck
Remember Me (6a, onsight)
Beer Loa (5, onsight)
Yuck Yuck Yuck
Sleeping, Loas (17-12-2006)
Sam's Dream (5b, Sleeping Wall, onsight, hmmm, not liking this rock)
Happy (6a, Sleeping Wall, onsight)
Wildside (6b, Sleeping Wall, hmmm, what happened to natural lines?)
White Jungle (6b+, Sleeping Wall, Grrrrr)
New Route (6a??, Sleeping Wall, onsight, ok this is a little better, but not liking all the slings and the anchors, yuck)
Hate (6b, Sleeping Wall, ok this was a bit better)
Happy (6a, Sleeping Wall, onsight)
Wildside (6b, Sleeping Wall, hmmm, what happened to natural lines?)
White Jungle (6b+, Sleeping Wall, Grrrrr)
New Route (6a??, Sleeping Wall, onsight, ok this is a little better, but not liking all the slings and the anchors, yuck)
Hate (6b, Sleeping Wall, ok this was a bit better)
Monday, December 11, 2006
Crazy Horse, Thailand
Crazy Horse is a crag about 25 KM from Chiang Mai near a little village Mae On. The climbing is wide and varied and covers many grades. However at each level there is probably one enough routes for 6 or 7 days. After 6 days climbing we have exhausted almost all the 5, 6a's and 6b's.
The easy way of getting to Crazy Horse is by using one of the climbing shop's bus service. The drive you there and bring you lunch. However, we wanted independence, so hired a motor bike for v. cheap. We had to watch out for the crazy driver, though. They do tend to stick to their lanes and sometimes indicate, but they never look and will cut across you at any moment.
It is not worth buying the guide book as it is relatively expensive and there is too much advertisment. However, you can hire it at one of the shops and photocopy the revelant pages.
The easy way of getting to Crazy Horse is by using one of the climbing shop's bus service. The drive you there and bring you lunch. However, we wanted independence, so hired a motor bike for v. cheap. We had to watch out for the crazy driver, though. They do tend to stick to their lanes and sometimes indicate, but they never look and will cut across you at any moment.
It is not worth buying the guide book as it is relatively expensive and there is too much advertisment. However, you can hire it at one of the shops and photocopy the revelant pages.
Crazy Horse, Thailand (11 December, 2006)
Love Me, Love My Route (6a+, The Furnace, Onsight)
Crazy Hot (6b, Archway North Face, Onsight)
Kee Dtack (6b, Archway South Face, Rested once - v. steep)
Kee Gai (6a+, Archway South Face, more airmiles - got a sting at the finish)
Crazy Hot (6b, Archway North Face, Onsight)
Kee Dtack (6b, Archway South Face, Rested once - v. steep)
Kee Gai (6a+, Archway South Face, more airmiles - got a sting at the finish)
Crazy Horse, Thailand (10 December, 2006)
Cool and Funky (6a+, Aircon Wall, Grrr rest - very steep and juggy)
Air Conditioner (6a+, Aircon Wall, lots of airmiles - v. steep)
Backburner (6a+, The Furnace, Grrr made a mess of this - to hot in sunlight)
The Chimney Sweep (6a, Tamarind Village, Redpoint - let's say its an interesting route)
Air Conditioner (6a+, Aircon Wall, lots of airmiles - v. steep)
Backburner (6a+, The Furnace, Grrr made a mess of this - to hot in sunlight)
The Chimney Sweep (6a, Tamarind Village, Redpoint - let's say its an interesting route)
Crazy Horse, Thailand (09 December, 2006)
Into the Sun (6a, Crazy Horse, onsight)
Heart Beat (6a, Archway North Face, onsight)
The Gatekeeper (6b, The Gatekeeper, onsight)
A Route with a View (5c+, The Rooftop, onsight)
Skyscrapper (6a+, The Rooftop, onsight)
Heart Beat (6a, Archway North Face, onsight)
The Gatekeeper (6b, The Gatekeeper, onsight)
A Route with a View (5c+, The Rooftop, onsight)
Skyscrapper (6a+, The Rooftop, onsight)
Crazy Horse, Thailand (05 December, 2006)
The Queen Bee (5b, Tamarind Village, onsight)
Monkey Around (5b, Little Monkey Cove, onsight)
Shock The Monkey (6a+, Little Monkey Cove, onsight)
Ayah (6a, Crazy Horse Area, onsight)
Margeritaville (6a+, The Evening Terace, Grr one rest)
Monkey Around (5b, Little Monkey Cove, onsight)
Shock The Monkey (6a+, Little Monkey Cove, onsight)
Ayah (6a, Crazy Horse Area, onsight)
Margeritaville (6a+, The Evening Terace, Grr one rest)
Friday, December 8, 2006
Crazy Horse, Thailand (04 December, 2006)
Fire in the Mind (6a, Furnace, onsight)
Solarize (6a+, Furnace, onsight)
Sage (6a, The Junkyard, onsight)
Rock Climbing 101 (5c, Hanging Gardens, onsight)
Rock Climbing 102 (5c, Hanging Gardens, onsight)
Flapper (5c, Hanging Gardens, onsight)
Solarize (6a+, Furnace, onsight)
Sage (6a, The Junkyard, onsight)
Rock Climbing 101 (5c, Hanging Gardens, onsight)
Rock Climbing 102 (5c, Hanging Gardens, onsight)
Flapper (5c, Hanging Gardens, onsight)
Crazy Horse, Thailand (03 December 2006)
Ding Dong (5b, Crazy Horse Area, onsight)
Magic Drop (6b, Crazy Horse Area, one rest)
Mai Roo Reuang (6b, Crazy Horse Area, onsight)
Tarzan (5b, Hanging Gardensm onsight)
Magic Drop (6b, Crazy Horse Area, one rest)
Mai Roo Reuang (6b, Crazy Horse Area, onsight)
Tarzan (5b, Hanging Gardensm onsight)
Routes
I am going to try and compile a list of all the routes I do over the next year and store them here... Hopefully I don't get bored to quickly and loose track.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
